The best knitted polo shirts share a short list of construction details: a fine-gauge ribbed knit that drapes and holds its shape, a structured collar that resists curling, tipped trims, and a weight that sits well without clinging. Get those right and a polo looks considered for years. Below is how to spot real quality in a men's polo, what you are actually paying for at the top end, and where the Guillo Portofino lands at $162.
What makes a knitted polo shirt high quality?
Quality in a polo is built, not printed on a label. The markers are consistent across every respected maker: the knit, the collar, the trims and the weight.
- The knit. A fine-gauge rib gives a smooth, dimensional handle and a structured drape that holds its shape through the day, closer to fine knitwear than a flat printed tee.
- The collar. A good collar stands cleanly and resists curling. This comes from a tighter ribbed knit at the collar rather than cheap fused interfacing that warps after a few washes.
- The trims. Ribbed hem and cuffs keep the silhouette and stop the sleeves and hem from rolling. Contrast tipping at the collar and cuffs is the detail that lifts a polo beyond the ordinary.
- The weight. A mid-weight fabric drapes well and hides what is underneath without trapping heat. Too light looks cheap, too heavy wears hot.
What is English rib, and why does it matter?
Quick answer
A ribbed knit gives a polo a rich, textured handle and a structured drape that holds its shape, rather than the flat, thin feel of a basic jersey polo. It is the knit luxury houses use for their best polos.
Rib knitting creates raised vertical lines in the fabric, which adds both texture and a little natural give. The result feels substantial in the hand and drapes like fine knitwear, which is why ribbed knits sit at the premium end of the polo market. The same construction also makes the collar, hem and cuffs naturally springy, so they hold their shape instead of going limp.
The Portofino is built on a fine-gauge ribbed knit for exactly this reason: a smooth hand feel, a structured drape, and trims that keep their shape all day.
What is contrast tipping?
Contrast tipping is a fine line of a second colour along the edge of the collar and cuffs. It is a small detail with a big effect: it frames the collar, adds a quiet sporty note, and signals that the maker has thought about finishing rather than just stamping out a plain shirt. It is a hallmark of considered, resort-style polos, and it is a signature detail on the Portofino, in refined white against the deep black colourway.
How can you tell a cheap polo from an expensive one?
Hold two polos side by side and the differences are immediate. A cheap polo has a thin, flat knit, a collar that curls or flops after washing, raw or rolled hems, and a fabric that clings and shows everything underneath. A quality polo has a dimensional knit with real weight, a collar that stands on its own, ribbed anti-roll trims, and a drape that skims rather than clings.
Here is the part worth understanding before you spend, because the gap between a $160 polo and a $2,000 one is smaller than the price suggests.
What are you actually paying for in a $2,000 polo?
Luxury Italian houses have built their reputation on knitted polos, and they are genuinely beautiful garments. Take Brunello Cucinelli's cotton English rib knit polo, which retails around $2,000: it is a 100% cotton English rib knit, made in Italy, with a shirt-style collar, ribbed cuffs and bottom band, and contrast trim. Those are real quality markers, and they are exactly the construction details that define a good polo.
Here is the thing: most of those markers are about construction and design, not about a number on a tag. The Portofino is built on the same core details, a ribbed knit, a structured collar, contrast tipping, ribbed anti-roll hem and cuffs, at $162. The honest differences are worth stating plainly: the Cucinelli is 100% cotton and made in Italy, and you are also paying for the name, the boutique experience and the heritage. What you are not getting for the extra is a fundamentally different set of construction details.
| Construction detail | Luxury Italian rib polo (~$2,000) | Guillo Portofino ($162) |
|---|---|---|
| Knit | Ribbed knit | Fine-gauge ribbed knit |
| Collar | Structured, shirt-style | Structured open collar, holds shape |
| Contrast tipping | Yes | Yes, collar and cuffs |
| Ribbed hem and cuffs | Yes | Yes, anti-roll |
| Price | Around $2,000 | $162 |
The point is not that the two are identical. It is that the construction details that make a polo look and feel expensive are available far below luxury prices, if you know what to look for.
The knitted polo
The Portofino PoloFine-gauge ribbed knit, contrast tipping at the collar and cuffs, structured open collar and anti-roll trims. In black and red.
How should a polo shirt fit?
Quick answer
A polo should be trim but not tight: the shoulder seams sit where your arm meets your torso, the body skims without clinging, the sleeves end mid-bicep, and the hem sits just below the waistband so it works tucked or untucked.
With a ribbed knit, the fabric naturally follows your shape, so take your true size rather than sizing up. A knitted polo is meant to drape close to the body like fine knitwear, not hang loose like a tee. The Portofino is cut as a classic comfortable fit, clean through the body with room to move.
What polo colours should you own first?
Start with black. It is the sharpest and most versatile, working from a poolside lunch to an evening out, and it pairs cleanly with stone or navy chinos and tailored shorts. A deeper accent colour like red comes next, for when you want the same quality with a bit more presence. The Portofino comes in both.
Frequently asked questions
What makes a polo shirt high quality?
A fine-gauge ribbed or substantial knit, a structured collar that resists curling, ribbed anti-roll hem and cuffs, and a mid-weight fabric that drapes without clinging. Tipped trims and clean finishing are signs the maker has not cut corners.
Are knitted polos better than pique polos?
Knitted rib polos feel more substantial and drape like fine knitwear, which is why they sit at the premium end. Pique is lighter and more casual. For a polished, smart-casual look, a ribbed knit polo is the more refined choice.
Why are some polos so expensive?
At the luxury end you pay for premium fibres, country of origin such as made in Italy, and the brand and boutique experience. Many of the construction details that make a polo look expensive, ribbed knit, tipped collar, anti-roll trims, are available far below luxury prices.
What is contrast tipping on a polo?
A fine line of a second colour along the collar and cuff edges. It frames the collar, adds a subtle sporty note, and signals considered finishing. It is a common detail on premium and resort-style polos.
How should a knitted polo fit?
Trim but not tight, with shoulder seams sitting where the arm meets the torso and a hem just below the waistband. Take your true size; a ribbed knit follows your shape and is meant to drape close like fine knitwear.
How do I keep a polo collar from curling?
Choose a polo with a ribbed or structured collar rather than cheap fused interfacing. Wash cool, avoid high heat in the dryer, and store it folded or hung flat.
Luxury polo details, without the luxury price
Ribbed knit, tipped collar, structured and built to last. The Portofino Polo in black and red.
Shop the PortofinoFree 44-day AU and NZ returns and exchanges. 15% off when you buy 3 or more pieces.
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